Just off Largo Cairoli in central Milan, Artidoro is a stylish, airy and earthy restaurant run by – and for - old-school gourmets. Care and not fuss has gone into the city-meets-countryside look, which marries well with the contemporary twist given to the Emilia-Romagna and Lombardy-style cooking in which Artidoro specialises. Rumour has it, salami is an aphrodisiac at Artidoro, where platters of the local Milanese speciality with sides of parmesan Parmigiano Reggiano - make couples act a little coo coo in the candlelight. If all this sounds good but you’re not sure you can afford it, Artidoro also has a less formal - and cheaper - bistro section serving an affordable tasting menu.