Serge is one of the Frenchest of the French restaurants in Manhattan. Its décor, menu, even its awning could have been flown over in one piece from the rues of Paris, Bordeaux, or Toulouse without spilling a drop of French essence. There are bright red frilly awnings to see you inside. The walls display a changing array of new painterly talent. The tables are set with white cloths, no-nonsense china and stemware, and there are lovely flowers that bring the French countryside indoors. And the menu, of course, continues the theme without missing a beat: starters include traditional French onion soup, mains feature coq-au-vin, and desserts include classic ile flottante as well as an assortment of cheeses imported from the old country. This is archetypal French cuisine in an equally traditional French setting. Resistance is futile.