You've seen the film and think you know how it is, but you owe it to yourself to go and enjoy the real Moulin Rouge at the foot of Montmartre in the seedier, more atmospheric side of town. Moulin Rouge is where the can-can began. It inspired the great art of Toulouse-Lautrec, and was right at the epicentre of all the fun and frivolity of the Belle Epoque. The rooms are historic and fantastic, and the cabaret, with its 100 artistes, is a fantastic show of womanly curves, mad costumes and thousands of feathers. It is also entirely non-smoking. Try starter of tomato and basil bouillon, main course of roast leg of rabbit with pommes gnocchi, and pudding of chestnut cream with chocolate noisette.